Monitoring Hibernation in Reptiles
It’s important to monitor your Reptile if it does go into hibernation and of course you will know if it is a Reptile that hibernates when you first aquire it, it’s very important to recognise if it is a hibernator and how to deal with this period of the year.
It’s important to make some plans for the Hibernation and make a safe draught free comfy place for the Reptile to go. This can be a simple box or container in it’s normal habitat.
The temperature needs to be reduced slowly until the ambient temp is around 10-12 dgrees centigrade. You dont need complete darkness, butI would lower the light to help.
Keep checking your reptile every week or so and just monitor it’s weight and general appearance of it’s skin, if it’s very dry then you can soak the skin or just dab with a damp cloth.
Keep an eye on it’s breathing and especially the nose and eyes to check they’re clean, dont worry you wont disturb it !
Reptiles can hibernate for anything from a month to 4-5 months a year but again you need to know what is best for your species. When it’s time to wake the sleepyhead up then slowly increase the temperature over a few days back to normal and this should start to increase it’s activity and slowly begin to eat again
Turtles as Pets
Turtles are endlessly fascinating and are often popular choices as pets, although most people do not realise the amount of
work and effort needed to care for them properly, including large tanks special lighting, good filtration and lots and lots of cleaning!
Which Turtle?
For beginners, the best choice is an abundant local species, bred from captivity. These not only do not have to adjust to different climates and seasons, they will also be used to a captive environment and adapt more easily to the presence of people. They are also less likely to be harbouring diseases and parasites. Another option is to adopt a turtle that needs a new home. Never take a turtle from the wild if possible as wild populations are already being threatened by human encroachment into their habitat.
Good species for beginners include the red-eared sliders, the most well-known pet turtle, and the cooters, mud and musk turtles. Remember, though, that many of these, if healthy and properly-cared for, grow to 12 inches or more and will require a significantly large enclosure. In addition, turtles will live for decades and as such are a long-term commitment.
Housing Your Turtle
The biggest problem people don’t realise is that these little reptiles have fairly sophisticated housing requirements. For younger, smaller specimens, a 10-gallon tank is the minimum; as the turtles grow and mature, a twenty-gallon tank or even larger is highly recommended. Don’t forget that a larger tank will provide more room for swimming and basking and will therefore need less cleaning.
The tank needs to contain at least 6 inches of water (deep enough for the turtle to flip over if necessary) and also have an elevated area when the turtle can bask, completely dry from the water. This can be as simple as a pile of aquarium gravel or smooth rocks at one end of the tank, although pet stores will sell other manufactured alternatives. If you have more than one turtle, make sure that the basking area is large enough to accommodate them all simultaneously.
Filtration is an extremely important requirement as turtles are very messy creatures and produce a copious amount of waste. Canister filters are ideal and it is always better to go for something slightly larger than your needs than something which may turn out to be inadequate.
Regular cleaning of the tank is vital to keeping the turtle healthy (and this is the area most people fall down on); by the time the water in the tank turns cloudy or starts to smell, it is too late! It is also important to drain a third of the tank water regularly and replace it with fresh, de-chlorinated water of the same temperature. In addition, keep an eye on the tank itself, the basking area and any other objects inside the tank as these need to be thoroughly scrubbed whenever grime begins to accumulate.
Heating and Lighting
Like all reptiles, turtles need to be provided with an artificial heat source and ideally should be kept at a constant ambient temperature of between 68-80 degrees F all year round. As turtles hibernate, any temperature lower than this range may cause it to stop feeding and prepare for hibernation. The best choice is a submersible water heater (with a thermometer installed in the water to monitor temperature). Further basking heat can be provided by installing a heat lamp above the elevated area.
Aside from heat, turtles need to have regular exposure to UV light in order to manufacture Vitamin D and prevent metabolic bone diseases. If you cannot provide enough strong, direct sunlight, this may need to come via special fluorescent bulbs.
Feeding Your Turtle
Most turtles are omnivores and thrive on a varied diet. Thus commercial turtle foods on their own may be insufficient. It should be supplemented with raw fish, insects, worms and aquatic plants although try to avoid foods which rapidly decompose in water and always remove uneaten food promptly. It is recommended that turtles be fed in a separate plastic container (e.g. cat litter tray filled with water) as they are extremely messy eaters and this will help to contain the mess as well as reduce the need for frequent tank cleaning. This also allows you to monitor your turtle’s food intake. Turtles like routine and so should be fed according to a schedule. Also, unlike many other reptiles, turtles can become obese if given too much food and thus need to be monitored for their own health.
Turtles and Children
Despite their traditional popularity as pets for children, turtles are not actually a good choice of pet for kids. Not only do most children not have the ability or inclination to provide the necessary level of care and cleaning a turtle needs, they also do not understand the need for careful hygiene. This is an important issue as turtles, even healthy specimens, can harbour the Salmonella bacteria which is easily transmitted to children through handling and can cause serious illness, even death in very young children. While the risk is easily minimised with good hygiene practices, such as washing hands with warm, soapy water immediately after any contact with a turtle or turtle tank, it is still not advisable for children to keep turtles without adult supervision.
While it may all seem like a lot of work and hassle, turtles can make wonderful, rewarding pets in the right hands.
Snake Tips
If you’re looking for an unusual, eye-catching pet, it’s hard to go wrong with a snake. They’re exotic enough to catch people’s interest, yet hardy enough to require minimal care. Nevertheless, uninformed first-time owners tend to make some basic mistakes, some of which can be quite costly. Here are some simple tips that can help ensure the health of the snake and prevent a lot of aggravation as well.
1. First, take note of how large your snake can grow to be. Most North American varieties only grown to be about four feet long, which is a reasonable size. Don’t let a pet store employee talk you into buying a Burmese python, since these critters can grow to be over thirty feet long, and will require huge cages and tremendous amounts of food. (And before you ask… No, most zoos will not accept these as donations.)
2. Don’t scrimp on cage size. A cage that is too small can be very stressful and unhealthy to your pet. Pet store clerks will sometimes try to sell you caging that is inadequate in size, so don’t fall into this trap. For adequate comfort, the combined length and width of the cage should at least match the snake’s length. Snakes can grow fairly quickly, so don’t forget to take that into account as well!
3. Do find out how docile that particular specimen is. Most non-venomous North American snakes are fairly docile, but if you’re a first-time keeper, you should probably make sure that your prospective pet can be handled easily.
4. Make sure that you select a pet with a hearty appetite. Ball pythons, for example, make great pets—but they are notoriously finicky eaters. Corn snakes make great starter pets because they are exceedingly docile and aren’t picky about what they eat.
5. Snakes—indeed, any reptile—can potentially spread salmonella. The risk involved is very small, but one should still play safe. This is especially true when young children or people with compromised immune systems are involved. Do read up on reptile hygiene and salmonella before purchasing your pet.
Obviously, these tips only constitute some basic advice. I recommend that all prospective owners should read up on snake care in general, as well as the specific needs of the species that they plan to purchase. A little bit of basic research can prevent a great deal of aggravation in the future.
Moving House With Your Reptile
A lot is written how to move with dogs, cats or even fish. But what if your beloved ones are far more exotic and unusual than other people’s pets, don’t they need some special and accordingly unusual care during the move? If you are the lucky owner of, say, a snake or a hamster here are few suggestion for your smooth with them:
The first thing to remember when moving reptiles is to keep them moist. It can be achieved by putting a damp blanket inside a moving container for your pet. Reptiles can be packed in boxes, venomous snakes should be be double boxed. Make holes in boxes to maintain good ventilation during the move.
Make the inside of the box soft for your pet by putting their foam panels, crumpled paper and pieces of cloth. Mark the box with both common and scientific names of your reptile. Be sure to write “live cargo”, “this side up” and “keep at room temperature ( 70-75F)” if you’ll be shipping your pet. The main danger of shipping your pet reptile is changes of temperature; a reptile can’t survive in too cold or too hot surroundings and it’s hardly avoidable during the move.
One of the convenient ways to move your reptile long distance is by overnight postal service, though USPS won’t guarantee live delivery; they might be only liable if the box in which you were moving your pet would have been damaged, but if your beloved one baked or freezed to death you would get nothing. This method of shipping is very common for moving turtles in cushioned, insolated boxes with air holes.
Nowadays, moving reptiles by airlines has become difficult due to people who were careless for shipping regulations and caused numerous accidents with their pets. Delta Dash (Delta Airline’s priority cargo service) and American Airline’s Priority Parcel service used to accept reptiles properly packed and clearly labelled. When moving your reptile by car don’t leave it alone overnight, always take it into motel where you’ll be stopping, if its pet friendly, of course, to soak your pet in a bath.
When moving small mammals like mice, gerbils, guinea pigs and hamsters, it’s better to use their normal container and move them in your car. Take the water and food out of their container and use rest areas to water and feed your pets. Maintain comfortable temperature – don’t park the car in the sunlight; remember whatever temperature is comfortable for you is comfortable for your beloved ones.
You also can ship your exotic pets abroad, provided they are not listed in CITES . You will need to fill out US Fish & Wildlife certificate before shipping your pets. You’ll also need to provide the list of animals you’re shipping with their common and scientific names and mark it on the shipping container.
Also you” need to contact your airline, that transports animals, for example Delta, to find out the procedures they demand. And make sure your pets pass Wildlife Inspection Port. Provided you took care of everything mentioned above check if the state you are moving to requires Health Certificates, Import Certificates or Value Added Tax and should they be ffixed to a pet carrier. It especially concerns countries of EU which have very strict regulations for incoming animals.
The Fun in Keeping Corn Snakes
It’s not hard to see why corn snakes are considered the best beginner pet snake to own. Not only are they docile and
enjoy being handled but they are also extremely hardy and therefore easy to care for. In addition, they come in a beautiful variety of colours and patterns.
Choosing Your Corn Snake
It is always best to start with a captive-bred specimen and corn snakes (Elaphe guttata guttata) are easily available as they breed readily in captivity and large numbers are produced annually.
Choose one that has clear eyes and is alert and flicking its tongue. Its body should be well-fleshed with no cuts or scrapes. Check also for signs of ticks and mites and also for a clean vent. Most corn snakes live for about 20 years and grow to a length of 3-5 feet, which is ideal for a pet. Captive-bred corn snakes are usually docile to handle and in any case, their bite is not venomous to human beings.
Housing Your Corn Snake
While corn snakes will tolerate a variety of environmental conditions, it is still important to provide the optimum living environment in order to preserve your snake’s health and condition. As they are relatively small, corn snakes do not need enormous enclosures and in fact, many people keep baby corn snakes in plastic shoeboxes with holes punched for ventilation.
Otherwise, a ten gallon terrarium or vivarium or similar size enclosure would be a suitable choice for a young corn snake, graduating to a standard twenty-gallon long aquarium upon reaching maturity and full adult size at about 3 or 4 years. Even larger aquariums, such as the thirty-gallon breeder tank or the fifty-five gallon tank would also be appropriate.
One thing to remember is that corn snakes are excellent escape artists therefore considerable thought must be given to escape-proofing the enclosure, such as a secure-fitting lid that can be clamped down.
The substrate on the floor of your terrarium is extremely important. Cedar shavings and pine shavings are believed to cause respiratory problems in snakes and therefore best avoided, as is corn cob bedding, often used with birds, as this can cause intestinal blockage if swallowed by the snake and may also cause excessive drying of the dermal tissues.
Preferred substrates include reptile bark, which can be bought from most pet stores, and newspaper or paper towels which can be easily removed when soiled and thus help to keep the terrarium clean, although they can look very unattractive. Another option is Astroturf – however, this does have a tendency to rot when wet so it is best to operate with 2 cut pieces which can be rotated so the soiled piece can be cleaned.
One important aspect that is often overlooked is the provision of hiding areas. This is essential in providing the snake with a feeling a security and can be as simple as a cardboard box, although many pet stores now offer sophisticated commercially-manufactured “hiding spots”. Whatever you choose, it must be large enough for the snake to curl up in and be out of sight but not so large that the snake will feel insecure.
Pieces of bark half buried in the substrate can also be ideal as the snake can burrow under them. It is important to provide hiding places in both the warm and cool areas of its enclosure so that it can feel secure in any area; it is also good to provide a branch for climbing.
Heating Your Corn Snake
One of the key aspects of keeping reptiles is thermoregulation. As corn snakes, like all reptiles, cannot manufacture their own body heat, they have to rely on ambient temperature to raise or lower their internal core temperature. Proper thermoregulation is essential for health and for specific processes such as digestion and immune function. This means that your snake must have access to at least one area where it can warm itself and ideally, there should be a gradient of 70-85 F (21-29 C) within the terrarium.
To achieve this, there are several methods: you can install an overhead heat lamp (with a metal reflector) above one side of the terrarium to create a basking area; alternatively you can use undertank heating pads to provide a gradient of temperature across the floor of the terrarium. Hot rocks are best avoided as they provide a very localised heat source that is often too intense, with the result that a snake will often burn itself as it tries to curl tightly around the rock. If buried underneath some substrate, it can provide a more dispersed form of heat but in general, it is best to avoid any form of heating that the reptile may have direct contact with. Note that corn snakes are not from temperate areas and as such do not need tropical temperatures.
Feeding Your Corn Snake
Like all snakes, corn snakes are carnivores needing live or freshly-killed prey. Young corn snakes are usually fed ‘pinkling mice’, with the size of the prey increasing to adult mice as the snake grows. As long as they have appropriate heating in the enclosure, corn snakes are not picky eaters and most will thrive on a regime of once- or twice-weekly feeds. Adults may only need feeding once every 10 days. Remember that appetite will diminish around the time of a shed so feeding frequency should be reduced accordingly. Remember also that if there are not enough appropriate hiding areas, corn snakes may become stressed and refuse to eat.
Water is also important and a dish of clean water should be available at all times as corn snakes drink frequently. Unfortunately, corn snakes will often defecate in their water so this must be noted and replaced immediately. Corn snakes will also bathe in the water dish just before a shed.
A Perfect Pet…
With their easy care and handling, corn snakes are justifiably one of the most popular snakes kept as pets. Their availability in a dazzling array of colours and patterns means that they are a favourite with experienced enthusiasts as well as hobby beginners.
Reptiles and Lighting
Many reptiles have very specific need when it comes to heat and light. Meeting these needs is essential to keeping these pets healthy, so it is important to understand why heat and light are so important.
Providing appropriate temperatures is extremely important. Being cold-blooded they rely on external temperatures to regulate their body temperature. In the wild, they naturally gravitate to an area with the temperature they need, moving into the sun or into shaded areas as necessary But they cannot do this on their own whilst in a tank.
One major issue is thate processes like digestion are only efficient at the right body temperature. At temperatures that are too low, a reptile may become sluggish and unable to digest its food properly.
Typically a basking light or other heat source can be placed at one end of the tank so that the temperature there is at the high end of the range for the reptile species. The other end should be maintained around the lower temperature range for the species.
Depending on what sort of reptile you are housing, accessories should be placed in the tank in such a way that the reptile can use the gradient while behaving naturally. 
So, if your reptile likes to hide, some kind of shelter should be provided in both the warm and the cool ends, so the reptile isn’t tempted to hide all day in a shelter that is not at the optimum temperature. If your reptile is arboreal, the appropriate temperatures must be avaialble up in the branches that the reptile climbs on.
The key is to provide conditions that mimic what the reptile would find in its natural environment. Invest in a couple of good thermometers and regularly monitor the temperatures in different areas of the cage. Remember the proper
Care Of Your Box Turtle
Congratulations, you have a new box turtle. But how do you take care of your precious new friend? Taking care of a box turtle can take some work, but there are simple steps to ensure that your box turtle is happy in his new home.
First you must decide housing for the turtle. Will you keep it indoors or outdoors? If you decide to keep the turtle outside, make sure that the area is similar to the turtle’s natural habitat. There should be plenty of sun since box turtles are reptiles, but also shade in case the turtle becomes overheated under the constant heat of the sun.
Provide water for your turtle so that it is deep enough for swimming. The home should have weed-like plants and insects for consumption. An outdoor setting is probably the home a turtle would choose. However, an indoor home properly made will keep your box turtle just as happy and safe.
If you build your turtle a home indoors, use a container like those made by Rubbermaid. The best option is to have a large, dark container that the turtle cannot see through. A turtle can become perplexed and frightened looking out of a clear container. One of my box turtles constantly tried to climb through the wall of his clear container, so I had to move him.
The container should be large and filled a few inches deep with a substrate such as “Bed-a-Beast.” Then provide a hiding place for the turtle such as a hollow log. You should make a pool for the turtle since that is where a turtle usually poops. I used the plastic lid of a container for food. Make sure that the pool is not too deep. Every day, keep the entire tank moist by spraying the surfaces of the home.
Inside the home of the turtle, keep the temperature fairly warm in the lighted area- about 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Use UV-B light to keep the turtle healthy and active all day. Another option is to take your turtle outside to soak in the sun for about an hour a day. The natural sunlight is tremendously healthy for your turtle, although he may not enjoy it at first. Just remember, you know what’s best for your turtle. Keep an area away from the light so that the turtle can rest there when he’s had enough light. This is why it is important to have a container that is large enough for two distinct areas.
The food a turtle eats is obviously very important to its health. A person must watch his or her own diet. It is your responsibility, however, to feed your turtle healthy foods. A turtle will eat almost anything, from fruits and vegetables to insects and worms. Another factor you should consider is providing edible materials with high calcium levels such as boiled eggshells or a cuttlebone that you can buy at any pet store. One final hint to feeding your turtle- have fun with it. Be creative in feeding your turtle from day to day because you do not want to create an addiction to one food by feeding it the same thing each day. Keep the turtle’s diet balanced with half plant and half meat.
I have a few final hints below on how to take care of your new box turtle.
1. If your turtle does not eat, try soaking the food in water first. Or, if you are constantly there watching your turtle, he may never come eat the food. Unfortunately, you can easily frighten turtles, so leave your turtle alone to eat peacefully.
2. Change the water in an indoors home every day to keep it clean since that is the most likely place a turtle will defecate. When coaxing a turtle to do this, use warm water to help him.
3. If a turtle burrows deep into the substrate and does not come up for a few days, don’t worry. This is completely natural since turtles enjoy being in tight spaces. However, make sure that your turtle gets enough food.
4. Feed your turtle on a rock because this will help him scratch away extra-long toenails.
Just follow the easy tips above, and you will be an expert caretaker for your new turtle. Do not neglect your turtle since it is helpless without you. Be responsible and enjoy your friendship.
Importance to a lizard of Heating
All lizards are endothermic, meaning they take their heat from their surroundings. With this in mind their enclosure needs to have adequate space and placement to allow them to regulate their temperature. The vivarium itself should be around 36 Inches to 42 inches long and of no less than 18 to 24 Inches widthways. The height should be adequate to place decor and allow the Beardie to climb, so a height of around 18 to 24 Inches should be available.
There are several types of vivarium available, from the usual ply board and sliding glass door type to the all glass type. Either is sufficient, however the wooden types tend to keep heat in more effectively and reduce stress as the wooden sides don’t create reflection like glass vivariums and create secluded corners for your pet to retreat to. However some glass vivariums come with metal mesh on the top and ventilation on the doors, allowing for better air movement than the wooden types.
Lizards require a temperature gradient of around 30-35 degrees Celsius at the hottest end and 20-25 degrees Celsius at the coolest end. A basking spot reaching around 40 degrees Celsius is also needed. Creating this gradient is the key to success as it governs all of their habits and workings.
So how do you create the correct temperature gradient for a Lizard? Well, it partly depends on the type of vivarium you have. The main tools of heating are a heat mat (regulated with a thermostat) and a basking spotlight (in addition to UV lighting). 
You place the heat mat under the substrate at one end of the vivarium. The heat mat works on infrared and will literally heat the substrate and therefore your lizard. A thermostat is usually required to control the heat mats output, so it doesn’t get too hot, as the heat mat needs to stay on all of the time.
At the same end a basking light should be hung. This will provide your lizard the area of concentrated heat it needs as well as heating the air in the vivarium, known as ‘ambient heat. Some vivariums have special units that can clip onto the top.
The wattage of the light also needs to be carefully considered.
Generally smaller enclosures require a smaller wattage, 50, 75 and 100 watts are good standards although larger cages may need 150w. It is also important to remember glass will not insulate the enclosure as well as wooden sided vivariums, therefore may require a higher wattage. The best thing to do is to ask your local pet store on the specifics of your tank, going from there you can experiment until you are satisfied. This also emphasizes the need to set up your vivarium and running it for a bit to see what needs changing and so on.
Lastly, UV lighting is needed for some lizards. Without proper lighting your they cannot manufacture the vitamins they need from food. Usually a UV light strip, manufactured especially for use in vivariums, is put at the centre toward the top back of the vivarium.
Wondering What Reptile Tanks Are Right For You? Wonder No More!
Have you been looking at reptile tanks but have not found the one that’s a perfect fit for you and your pet? or are you
considering purchasing a reptile as a pet, but are not sure what sort of home you should be obtaining for your reptile?
When searching for a home for your reptile there are a number of factors and variables to consider. You want to find the reptile tank that will be large enough to assure that your pet is comfortable in his or her living space, but small enough that it is easy to clean and maintain, and one that fits your budget.
Reptile tanks come in a variety of types and sizes. The first and most important step you need to take is to thoroughly research the natural habits and habitat of your pet.
Lizards, snakes and turtles are all reptiles, but they each require a specific living space, tailored to the needs of their species. An important factor to consider is how large your particular reptile may grow to be. Smaller reptiles, such as the popular Russian tortoise which only grows to a maximum of ten inches, require less space than larger reptiles, like the Green iguana, which can grow up to nearly five feet from head to tail.
Other factors to consider when shopping for reptile tanks include where you intend to display your tank, the amount of cleaning required to maintain it, and whether or not your tank will require any attachment that are necessary for the comfort of your pet, such as heat lamps or water filters.
